Consider the DB Vest

Consider the double breasted vest. There are a variety of styles for a man's vest but we generally see just the single breasted (the upper right panel in the illustration). Once in a rare while that single breasted model will have notched lapels in a more conservative version of the vest at the lower right, but that's usually as adventuresome as contemporary clothing gets.

Well I'm here to to talk up the double breasted shawl collar model (center left) as a change of pace for a dark single breasted city suit. The double breasted vest is a bit harder to make and fit and I assume those are the reasons it fell out of favor on the ready to wear racks. That rarity makes it a nice choice for a bespoke change of pace.

Consider that a DB vest is not flashy like slanted pockets, which have run their course as London's version of a "my suit is bespoke" symbol now that they are found on off the peg garments. The owner of a DB vested suit can just leave the vest hanging at home and wear the jacket and trousers when the occasion calls for discretion. The rest of the time he's got something interesting to wear to a cocktail party. And that's a good thing.

Odd Jacket and Odd Vest

Spring and Fall are when I seem to pull out my odd vests. A vest provides another way to vary the look of a jacket and trousers. It also adds a layer of warmth that extends the wearability of a light-weight jacket into cool weather, and a mid-weight into cold weather.

In the photo, I'm wearing a linen odd vest with a fresco odd jacket. The day is windy on the coast and that wind whistles right through the fresco. In combination the two are perfect for the conditions.

As I've written before, a vest requires trousers that will stay up without a belt as a visible belt buckle under a vest is a sin comparable to showing bare skin above your socks when you cross your legs. Don't do it.

But do consider the versatility of an odd vest with your odd jacket.

Reader Questions

From Bill
What is your opinion on the most traditional type of vest to have made as part of a conservative 3 piece suit? Previously, I have only had the standard single breasted 6 button vest. However, I have seen recent pictures and commentary on double breasted and vests with lapels.

Every style is rooted in tradition and what's correct depends on the type of suit. For country inspired clothes, like the glen check in the photo, lapels are a traditional vest detail. In the city, the single breasted vest without lapels is the least likely to draw attention on a pinstripe. And the double breasted vest increases the formality of a suit compared to the usual single breasted style. Try one with a solid charcoal or navy blue suiting.

From TJ
As one of your readers who is in 'phase two' of his wardrobe I'd be interested in your opinions, the history of, and options for the following:

-Jacket Vents (one, two, none)
-Pant Cuffs (to cuff or not to cuff)

Briefly, single vented jackets came from riding coats. They don't look very good when a man puts his hands in his pockets, which is why I and most men that follow classic style prefer the double vent. Ventless jackets were the traditional option for formal wear but have the same unattractive-backside-bulge-when-hand-is-in-pocket problem as does a single vented coat. Go ventless only if you keep your hands in sight at all times.

Trousers at the turn of the 20th century were flat fronted and cuffless. Pleats were introduced during the twenties and continue to be the sign of good tailoring IMO. Pleats should be accompanied by cuffs except on formal trousers, which are always uncuffed.

The flat front came back after WWII for uniform trousers and working clothes, and the Italians brought it to dress trousers. Flat fronts are OK for younger men with washboard stomachs but should never be accompanied by cuffs unless the wearer doesn't care about history.

Reader Questions

From Bill

I am looking to have made a blue chalk stripe suit, 2 button, single breasted, with ticket pocket. The trousers will be rather high waisted and pleated, with cuffs, without belt loops, to be supported by braces, as are often wonderfully depicted in your own photos. It will be for city or formal wear.

Previously, I have only had the standard single breasted 6 button vest. However, I have seen recent pictures and commentary on double breasteds and vests with lapels. What is your opinion on the most traditional choice?

Country suits often have lapels on the vests. The most formal city suits can have a DB vest. And well dressed men sometimes add country details to city suits.

The only caution I'll add is that a ticket pocket and a double breasted vest together might be a bit busy on a suit for formal occasions.

From Mark
I need to get a new trench coat and am looking for something hyper-durable and ideally not too light in color (I find the traditional tan to be a stain magnet, which as an agribusiness executive who travels frequently in India/Africa, comes with the job).

Any suggestions on brands and colors? I was thinking brown or very dark khaki, but perhaps olive green would work as well. I need something that goes with a standard navy/grey suit palette however.

Aquascutum or Burberry will have what you're looking for and both will be on sale after the holiday. I'm currently wearing a Burberry microfiber trench that doesn't stain and it's closer to taupe than it is to khaki. It works well for me.

A Waistcoat With Flair

I've written before how odd waistcoats can liven up a conservative suit without drawing any second glances. Here's a shawl collared double breasted waistcoat in light gray worn with a navy suit in the evening. The jacket's peak lapels add a formal touch for evening, the waistcoat's mother of pearl buttons complement the white shirt, and the navy and gray necktie pulls it all together. Bravissimo!

Sources: Tuttle

Connecticut's Tuttle Sportswear started in 1990 as a golf clothing specialist and over time has expanded its offerings to include most types of ready to wear sportswear. The company's offerings reflect its original golf orientation, with lines such as Oscar Jacobson, Bobby Jones and Ben Hogan side by side with Dore Dore socks and Majer trousers.

I am not one for logos, or for someone else's name sewn conspicuously on my clothing, but I do like Tuttle's private labeled goods, such as their Alpaca V-Neck sweater vests ($125) in eleven colors and the single ply cashmere mock turtlenecks ($325). I wear the mock tees under odd jackets when I'm visiting a Silicon Valley business that may not have seen a man wearing a necktie since the previous millenium.

The company has been successful because it does things right. Shipments are sent next business day by Fedex at reasonable prices (the default is ground service) and there is a convenient order tracker screen built into the site.

There is also a reasonable refund and exchange policy. Refunds are issued in the original form of payment and there is no shipping charge on exchange orders. Original and return shipping, handling and insurance charges are not refundable.

Sources: bowties.com

Apart from their role as an integral component of Winston Churchill's daily dress, bow ties have had a long and, please forgive me, spotty history. They began to achieve popularity during the 1920s, peaked during the 30's, declined and then peaked again during the 60's. By that measure we're a decade overdue for their return which means they'll probably be featured with double breasted suits when those are resurrected in ready to wear collections in the next year or two.

If and when bows do come back, it will be partly due to the efforts of Randy Hanauer, whose South Carolina company bowties.com was established in 1986 to make white linen pocket squares. I like Hanauer's modern business approach - customers choose a pattern online from hundreds of silks and the company makes a bow tie in one of several shapes, a pocket square, ascot, vest, cummerbund and/or D-ring belt to order for about the same price as a ready to wear choice of similar quality. Prices range from $50 or so for most belts and bows to $125 for a typical cummerbund or ascot and $300 for a vest.

Unlike most ready to wear bow tie suppliers, Hanauer offers bows in several shapes, including butterfly, diamond end, and three varieties of straight, including the wide 2 1/2" paddle shape worn by the late Duke of Windsor. You can get an even more personal service from Charvet of course, and choose from a wider variety of silks, but it's more expensive and considerably less convenient unless you happen to live in Paris.

Once you place an order, bowties.com's service is quite good. My only complaint is that no-one at the company appears to be responsible for answering emails. I've sent half a dozen to the address supplied on the site over the years and never received a single response. Since everything else works I don't worry about it.

Reader Questions

From Chase

"I am about to purchase a suit for the first time in ten years, and have been watching Cary Grant movies to see his style in men's clothing. I just finished watching The Awful Truth.

In this film, Grant wears three piece suits with the jacket buttoned. I am not familiar with this look at all. I thought if one is wearing a vest, one would display it. Is this just an affectation of Grant's, or of the 1930s, when this film was made? Or am I incorrect, and it is appropriate to wear a three piece suit in this manner?"

Watching Cary Grant is a great way to learn. Jackets should normally be buttoned while you are standing so they don't flap about and display the lining. But don't make too much of this. No-one will pillory you for leaving a single breasted coat unbuttoned (double breasted is another matter). Grant's jacket is open many times on camera, even when he's not being chased by a crop duster.

Bring Back the Vest

Central heating has just about killed the vest, which is a shame. I don't know if anyone has calculated the environmental impact but it strikes me that we'd all be better off if we turned down our thermostats and wore vests and sweaters to keep warm. There's no question in my mind but that we'd look better.

You feel the value of a vest whenever you're walking outdoors on one of those cool days that are too sunny for an overcoat. Jacket and trousers by themselves leave the chest vulnerable, with only a thin layer of cotton shirting for temperature control. And I value a vest's pockets for carrying cigars, cutter and lighter when I plan to sit in the park and smoke.

It's important to note that there's no requirement that your vest, on the days that you wear one, matches the rest of your suit. Cream, buff, and dove gray linen odd vests don't stand out from their accompanying worsted. They add a discreet layer of interest to an otherwise ordinary charcoal or navy suit. I like mine with lapels, like the fellow in the drawing to the left.

In a time when ready to wear suit makers are selling summer weight fabrics all year round because they're less expensive, it's time to strike a blow for elegance and the environment. Bring back the vest!

Reader Questions

From Harry

"I am rather intrigued by the idea of a wearing a matching jacket and vest with non-matching trousers. I've seen this done in pictures and movies of the Thirties and there was a 'tiny vogue' for this when I came of sartorial age in the 1970s. You mentioned this combo once in your postings.

My idea is to get two three piece suits that can be switched around (I don't like the idea of a contrasting jacket with matching vest and trousers). Could this be done in tweed only or in lighter weight fabrics? Similar weight fabrics would be necessary but what color and texture? Can this be done with a double breasted vest or best left to single?"

I've read speculation that this style is the result of men wearing suit jackets after the trousers wore out. That might have sometimes been the case, but Alan Flussers' Dressing the Man has a photo (page 4) of society architect T. Markoe Robertson wearing a tweed jacket with matching double breasted waistcoat and flannel trousers. I think it likely that Robertson, a resident of Tuxedo Park and married to a high profile Biddle, simply liked the look.

To me, the interest of the combination lies in the contrast of both pattern and texture between trousers and a jacket with either style of matching vest. Without a distinct contrast there'd be a risk that people might think you'd dressed in the dark and inadvertantly donned the wrong trousers.